guide
The Leather Guide
How to tell good leather from leather that only looks good.
Not all leather is the same, and the words on a label don't always help. Here is how we think about it.
Full grain.
The outermost layer of the hide, left intact. It keeps every natural mark and the strongest fibres, and darkens the most with age. It is also the least uniform.
Top grain.
The same outer layer, lightly sanded to even out the surface and then finished. It looks cleaner and more consistent, stands up well to everyday wear and moisture, and softens gradually with use. This is what we use, because it suits something carried every day.
Split and "genuine" leather.
Cut from the lower layers of the hide. It is real leather, but weaker, and usually coated or embossed to look like something better. "Genuine" is a grade, not a compliment.
Bonded leather.
Leather scraps pressed together with adhesive. It tends to crack and peel.
Synthetic.
Plastic made to look like leather. It does not soften or age. It wears out.
How to judge a wallet in a minute.
Look at the edges: they should be smooth and sealed, not frayed. Look at the stitching: even and tight, with no loose ends. Bend it gently: it should flex and spring back without creasing sharply. Smell it: leather should smell like leather, not chemicals.
Caring for it.
Wipe with a soft dry cloth. Keep it away from prolonged water and heat. If it gets wet, let it dry naturally, never on a radiator. Let it rest once in a while, and let it soften.